Pit to Pit Measurement: How to Measure a Jacket Chest Flat

Pit to pit is the number sellers quote and sizing charts rely on, yet it is surprisingly easy to take it a little differently each time. This pit to pit measurement guide shows you how to measure a jacket you already own, turn that number into a chest size and use it to choose your next leather jacket with confidence.

What is a pit to pit measurement?

Pit to pit, often shortened to PTP, is a flat measurement of a garment, not of your body. It is the distance straight across the chest of a jacket laid flat, from the seam under one arm to the seam under the other. You may also see it called chest width, flat chest or half chest.

It is popular because it is quick, needs only a tape measure and works on any jacket, so it is the easiest way to compare a jacket you love with one you are thinking of buying. The catch is that small differences in technique change the result, so a consistent method matters more than anything else.

How do you measure pit to pit on a jacket?

Pick a jacket that already fits the way you like, then follow these steps:

1. Use a hard, flat surface. A table or a clean floor works far better than a bed, where the jacket sinks and bunches.
2. Close it fully. Zip or button the front all the way, and close any snaps at the waist. On an asymmetrical biker, zip it up and let the front overlap sit naturally.
3. Smooth, do not stretch. Lay the jacket face up, flatten wrinkles with your palms and fold the sleeves out to the sides so they do not drag the body out of shape.
4. Find the armpit seams. These are the points where each sleeve meets the side of the body.
5. Measure straight across. Run a tape or ruler from the outer edge at one armpit seam to the outer edge at the other, keeping it level and taut, not following any curve.
6. Note your reference point. Some sellers measure right at the seam, others about 1 inch (2.5 cm) below it. Write down which you used next to the number.
7. Repeat once. If the two readings differ by more than about a quarter inch, smooth the jacket and measure again.

How do you turn pit to pit into a chest size?

Double it. A jacket that measures 22 inches pit to pit has a garment chest of about 44 inches all the way around. The front and back of most jackets are close to the same width at the chest, so doubling gives a reliable estimate.

That 44 inches is not your size, though. It is the jacket's size, and it includes the extra room, or ease, that lets you move, breathe and layer. To find the body chest a jacket suits, subtract the ease you want. In this example, a close fit would suit a body chest of roughly 40 to 42 inches.

How much bigger than your chest should a leather jacket be?

Leather barely stretches, so ease matters more than it does with knitwear or cotton. These ranges are a sensible starting point, measured as garment chest minus body chest:

Treat these as a range, not a rule. Personal taste, the cut of the jacket and the climate you live in all shift the ideal number. Leather also softens and molds to you a little with wear, but it will not gain inches, as our guide on whether leather jackets stretch explains.

These three jackets show the range: two cafe racers designed to sit close to the body, and an A-2 flight jacket, a style usually worn with a little more room for layering.

Men's Black Lightweight Cowhide Cafe Racer JacketWomen's Black Lambskin Cafe Racer Leather JacketMen's Distressed Brown Lightweight Cowhide A-2 Flight Jacket

What other flat measurements should you take?

Chest is the headline number, but a jacket can match it and still fit badly. With the jacket still flat, take these too:

• Shoulder width. Turn the jacket over and measure across the back from one shoulder seam to the other. This is the hardest measurement for a tailor to change.
• Sleeve length. Measure from the shoulder seam along the top of the sleeve to the end of the cuff. On raglan sleeves, which have no shoulder seam, measure from the center of the back collar seam over the shoulder to the cuff instead.
• Back length. Measure down the center of the back, from the seam where the collar joins the body to the bottom of the hem or waistband.
• Hem width. With the jacket closed, measure straight across the bottom edge and double it. This matters on fitted styles if you carry weight at the waist.

Our step-by-step guide on how to measure for a leather jacket covers the body measurements that go alongside these.

What are the most common pit to pit measurement mistakes?

• Measuring it open. An unzipped jacket spreads out and gives a reading that can be an inch or more too wide.
• Mixing reference points. A reading taken 1 inch below the armpit seam can differ from one taken right at the seam, especially on tapered or shaped cuts. Compare like with like.
• Letting the tape sag. A soft tape that dips or follows wrinkles adds length. Keep it straight and level.
• Pulling the leather. Tugging the jacket flat stretches it slightly for a moment and inflates the number.
• Comparing with the wrong chart. A pit to pit figure is a garment measurement, while most size charts list body measurements. Mixing the two without allowing for ease can put you a size too big or too small.
• Starting from a jacket that does not fit. If your reference jacket is tight in the arms or long in the body, its chest number may still be right, but check the other measurements before you copy them.

How do you use pit to pit with our size guide or made to measure?

Start by measuring your own chest over a T-shirt, then compare it with our size chart. Next, double the pit to pit from your favorite jacket and see how much ease it gives you. If that jacket feels right, look for a similar amount of room in the new one. If you land between two sizes, our guide to choosing between sizes in a leather jacket will help you decide.

If standard sizes never quite work for you, made to measure is the simpler route. Choose "Customise Size (made to measure)" on the product page, then email info@whiteburaq.com with your order number and measurements. It helps to include your favorite jacket's flat measurements and a line on how you like it to fit. Made-to-measure pieces take about 2 weeks, and express delivery takes 3 to 5 business days in the US or 5 to 8 elsewhere.

One difference is worth knowing before you order. Standard sizes can be returned within 30 days of delivery if unworn and unused with all tags attached. Made-to-measure pieces are cut just for you, so they are final sale and cannot be returned.

FAQ

Is pit to pit the same as chest size?

No. Pit to pit is half the jacket's chest measured flat. Double it for the garment chest, then remember that a jacket is meant to be several inches larger than your body chest.

Should a jacket be zipped when you measure pit to pit?

Yes. Zip or button it fully and lay it flat. An open jacket spreads at the front and gives a reading that is too wide, which can lead you to order the wrong size.

Do you measure at the armpit seam or 1 inch below?

Either works if you stay consistent. Many sellers measure about 1 inch below the armpit seam, so check how a listing was measured and take your own reading the same way before comparing.

Will a leather jacket's pit to pit change over time?

Only slightly. Leather softens and molds to your shape with wear, which can make a jacket feel a touch roomier, but the flat chest width stays close to its original measurement.

A careful pit to pit measurement is one of the easiest ways to take the guesswork out of buying a leather jacket online. Measure the jacket you love, compare like with like, and then check your numbers against our leather jacket size guide before you order.