A-1 vs A-2 Jacket: Buttons or Zip, Knit or Shirt Collar?

The A-1 and the A-2 are two of the earliest standard-issue leather flight jackets of the US Army Air Corps, and they differ mainly at the front and the neck. The A-1 closes with buttons under a soft knit collar, while the A-2 closes with a zip under a leather shirt-style collar that snaps down. That one change shapes how each jacket fits, how it handles wind and how it looks with the rest of your clothes.

The short history, and the myth worth dropping

The A-1 became standard issue in November 1927. It had a button front, buttoned pocket flaps and a stand-up knitted collar that buttoned closed, with knit cuffs and a knit waistband. The A-2 was adopted in May 1931 under specification 94-3040. It swapped the buttons for a zipper, added stitched-down shoulder straps and traded the knit collar for a leather shirt-style collar with hidden snaps at the points and a hook at the throat. It kept the knit cuffs and waistband. The first A-2s were made from horsehide, with cowhide and goatskin approved in 1940 and 1941.

Many people believe the A-2 simply replaced the A-1. It did not, at least not overnight. The two were in service side by side for a few years, and the A-1 specification was only canceled in 1934, as the A-2 jacket's service history shows. The A-2 went on to become the shape most people picture as a "bomber," which is why A-2s far outnumber A-1s today, in our range too. For the full story of each jacket, see our A-1 flight jacket guide and our A-2 jacket guide.

A-1 vs A-2 at a glance

How the details change the way each jacket wears

Buttons vs zip

In our workshop, a button front and a zip front are planned differently from the first cut. A zip is set between the front panel and a leather facing, so the front edge is firm and straight, and on the classic A-2 pattern a strip of leather sits behind it as a wind flap. A button front needs an overlap instead: one front panel is cut wider so the buttons can sit over the buttonholes, and each buttonhole has to be cut and finished cleanly, because leather does not forgive a crooked cut. The result is a front that folds and drapes more softly than a zipped one.

That difference shows up every day. With an A-1 you can undo the bottom button when you sit, so the waist does not bunch, or leave the top open over a shirt collar. Buttons are slower to do up, and harder in gloves. With an A-2 you get one clean line from hem to neck and a quicker close on a cold morning. The trade-off is that a zip shows fit problems clearly: if the chest or stomach is snug, the zip ripples, a problem we cover in our guide to why a leather jacket zipper goes wavy. Repairs differ too. A lost button is a quick home job, and our guide on sewing a button on a leather jacket walks you through it, while a broken zip usually needs a leather repairer.

Knit collar vs shirt collar

A leather shirt collar is two layers, a top collar and an under collar, stitched together, turned and topstitched so it holds its shape before it is set into the neckline. A knit collar is a rib band that has to be eased onto the neckline evenly, so it lies flat without waving.

The knit collar is soft, sits close and has nothing to flap in the wind. It looks neat over a crewneck sweater or a buttoned shirt, though some people find any knit against a bare neck a little warm. The shirt collar frames the face, can be turned up against wind and stays put thanks to the snaps at its points. It pairs naturally with a shirt collar underneath. Our navy A-1 pairs its knit collar with ribbed cuffs. The A-2s in our showcase below use a shirt-style collar, and the Cowhide A-2 with Zip-Out Liner adds a snap-off pile collar for colder days.

Pockets and shoulders

The classic A-2 has snap-flap patch pockets that are good for storage but awkward for warming your hands. That is why our Lightweight Cowhide A-2 adds side-entry hand-warmer pockets below the patch pockets. Our A-1 keeps a clean front with an internal chest pocket. The A-2's shoulder straps add a line across the top of the jacket, which helps a narrow frame look a little broader. The A-1's plain shoulders suit people who already have broad shoulders and want a softer outline.

Fit: a step-by-step check for both styles

Both jackets are relaxed bomber fits: room through the chest, a body that blouses slightly and knit cuffs that gather the sleeve. Here is the check we would run on you if you were standing in front of us. Our guide to how a bomber jacket should fit covers the general rules in more depth.

1. Shoulders. The shoulder seam should sit at the edge of your shoulder bone, not down on the upper arm.
2. Chest, closed. Zip the A-2 or button the A-1 all the way. The zip should lie flat; the buttons should sit without pull lines fanning out between them.
3. Reach and sit. Reach both arms forward, then sit down. On an A-1, gaping between buttons means the chest is too tight. On an A-2, a zip that bows outward means the same thing.
4. Waistband. On the A-2, the knit band should sit at or just below your belt, with the body blousing a little above it. If it climbs toward your navel when you raise your arms, the body is too short.
5. Sleeves. With arms relaxed, the knit cuff should reach your wrist bone. A little extra length is fine because the cuff gathers it, but the cuff should not slide up your forearm when you reach.
6. Layer test. Repeat steps 2 to 4 wearing the thickest layer you plan to put under it, such as a sweater or flannel shirt.

Most people take their usual chest size from our size guide. If you are between sizes on the A-1 and want a closer fit, size down; the Cowhide A-2 with Zip-Out Liner leaves room for a light layer even with the liner in.

If you fall outside the size chart, or you want the A-2 waistband to land in a particular spot, made to measure is the cleaner answer. Standard sizes run XS to 4XL, and made to measure goes up to 8XL. Choose "Customise Size (made to measure)" on the product, then email info@whiteburaq.com with your order number and measurements. Tell us what you plan to wear underneath, because that changes how much room we cut into the chest and sleeves. Made-to-measure pieces ship within 3 to 7 business days, and our made-to-measure page explains how to take each measurement. Standard sizes can be returned within 30 days of delivery, unworn with tags, while made-to-measure pieces are final sale, so measure carefully.

Which is warmer?

Neither design is a winter coat on its own. Warmth comes more from the weight of the leather and the lining than from the A-1 or A-2 label. That said, a zip with a collar snapped up seals better than a row of buttons, so in the same leather and lining the A-2 has the edge in wind.

Across our own pieces, the order is clear. The navy A-1 in lightweight lambskin with a cotton body lining is a mild-weather layer for spring, early fall and cool evenings. The Lightweight Cowhide A-2, in pull-up cowhide with a polyester twill lining, covers most of fall. The Cowhide A-2 with Zip-Out Liner is the cold-weather choice: its zip-out pile liner and snap-off pile collar let you wear it four ways, and its bi-swing back and underarm gussets leave room to move with a sweater on.

Men's Navy Lightweight Lambskin A-1 Flight JacketMen's Distressed Brown Lightweight Cowhide A-2 Flight JacketMen's Cowhide A-2 Flight Jacket with Zip-Out Liner

How each one breaks in

Lambskin is soft and light from the first wear, so an A-1 in lambskin drapes almost straight away. Cowhide starts firmer and needs a few weeks of regular wear to shape itself to your elbows and shoulders. Pull-up cowhide, like our Lightweight Cowhide A-2, also lightens where it creases, building visible character at the elbows, pocket edges and collar fold. The shirt collar is the stiffest part of a new A-2. If yours snaps down at the points, keep it snapped for the first few weeks; that trains the fold line so the collar sits flat on its own later.

Which one should you buy? A decision checklist

Choose the A-1 if:

• you already own a zip-front leather jacket and want something that looks different, not just a new color;
• you wear a lot of crewnecks, knits and buttoned shirts and like a soft collar against them;
• you like wearing a jacket half open, or you sit for long periods and want to undo the bottom button;
• you want a lighter jacket for mild weather that reads a little dressier, especially in navy over chinos.

Choose the A-2 if:

• this is your first flight jacket and you want the shape most people recognize;
• you want a zip and a collar you can turn up against wind;
• you want hand-warmer pockets or a zip-out liner for colder months;
• your everyday outfit is jeans, boots and a flannel or henley.

If you are still unsure, ask yourself how you wear your current jackets. People who zip everything up to the neck tend to be happier in an A-2. People who rarely close a jacket at all usually enjoy the A-1 more.

How to wear each one

The navy A-1 works over an oxford shirt with chinos and suede shoes, or over a crewneck sweater with dark jeans. A button-down shirt collar sits neatly against the knit collar. A brown A-2 is the natural partner for jeans, a henley or flannel shirt and leather boots. Zipped, its knit waistband holds the body in its blouson shape; worn open, it hangs straighter and looks more casual.

FAQ

Did the A-2 replace the A-1?

Not straight away. The A-2 was adopted in 1931, but the two were in service together for a few years and the A-1 specification was canceled in 1934. The A-2 became far better known afterward, which is where the idea of a simple replacement comes from.

Is an A-1 or an A-2 better as a first flight jacket?

For most people, the A-2. It is more versatile, easier to close against wind and easier to style. The A-1 makes a great first flight jacket if you prefer a softer look and mainly wear it in mild weather.

Should I size up to wear a sweater under an A-2?

Usually not. Both styles are cut relaxed, and sizing up tends to drop the shoulder seam and lengthen the sleeves past the cuff's gathering point. Take your usual size and run the layer test above. If the chest is too snug with your thickest sweater, made to measure lets us add room only where you need it.

Can I get an A-1 or an A-2 made to measure?

Yes, both. Follow the made-to-measure steps in the fit section above and tell us where you want the hem and cuffs to land. Made-to-measure pieces are final sale.

How is an A-2 different from a G-1?

The G-1 is the US Navy's flight jacket. It traditionally has a sheepskin collar instead of the A-2's leather shirt collar, plus a bi-swing back for reach. Our A-2 vs G-1 comparison breaks down the differences in detail.

Whichever front you choose, the jacket will wear best when the shoulders and chest fit. Browse our leather flight jackets to compare every A-1 and A-2 side by side.