How to Clean a Shearling Jacket at Home Without Ruining It

A shearling jacket is one of the warmest things you can own, and one of the easiest to damage with the wrong cleaning method. With winter on the way, here is how to clean a shearling jacket at home, from routine brushing to stains, snow and storage, without shrinking, stiffening or matting it.

What is shearling, and why does it need special care?

Shearling is a sheepskin or lambskin tanned with the wool left on. The skin side usually faces out and is finished either as suede, with a soft napped surface, or as a smooth, nappa-style leather. The wool faces in, and often shows at the collar, cuffs and front edges. Because you are cleaning leather and wool at the same time, water, heat and detergent affect both: too much water can stiffen the hide and leave rings, while heat can shrink the skin and mat the wool. Our guide to shearling leather explains the material in more detail.

Many jackets use sherpa instead, a synthetic fleece made to look like wool. Sherpa collars and linings are cleaned differently: gently, with cool water, and never with heat, which can flatten or melt the fibers. If you are not sure which you have, our sherpa vs shearling comparison shows how to tell them apart.

Step 1: Check the label and the finish

• Read the care label and follow any specific instructions.
• Identify the outer finish. Suede feels velvety and changes shade when you brush your hand across it. A smooth finish feels sleek and may have a slight sheen.
• Check the collar and lining to see whether they are real shearling or sherpa.
• Test every method on a hidden spot first, such as the inside of the front facing or under the collar.

How to clean a shearling jacket with routine brushing

Regular brushing does most of the work and reduces the need for anything wetter.

• Suede side: only when completely dry, use a suede brush with light strokes in one direction to lift dust and restore the nap. Use a crepe or rubber brush gently on flattened areas such as the elbows.
• Smooth side: wipe with a soft, dry cloth.
• Wool side: use a wide-tooth comb or a soft brush to fluff and untangle the wool, especially at the collar and cuffs, which mat first. Work in small sections and do not pull hard.

Brush every few wears during the season and always before storing the jacket.

How do you spot clean the outside?

Suede finish: rub a suede eraser gently over dry marks, much like a pencil eraser, then brush the nap back up. Avoid wetting suede to treat a small mark. Our guide on how to clean a suede jacket covers more stain types.

Smooth finish: wipe the mark with a soft cloth that is barely damp, adding a drop of mild soap to the water if needed. Follow with a plain damp cloth, then blot dry with a towel.

How do you clean the wool lining and collar?

The wool around the collar picks up hair products, makeup and skin oils. To refresh it:

1. Mix a small amount of a gentle, wool-safe detergent into a bowl of cool to lukewarm water.
2. Dip a clean cloth, wring it out well and dab the soiled area, working from the outside in.
3. Keep it damp, not wet, so water does not soak through to the skin.
4. Dab again with a cloth dampened with plain water to lift the detergent.
5. Blot with a dry towel, fluff the wool with your fingers and let it air dry. Comb it once it is dry.

Cleaning just the collar

The collar takes more daily wear than any other part of the jacket: it rubs against skin, hair, makeup and scarves, and it catches rain and road salt all winter. Often it is the only part that needs attention, so it is worth knowing how to clean it on its own.

Check whether the collar is shearling or sherpa

Part the pile at its base. Shearling shows a skin underneath, while sherpa shows a knit or woven fabric backing. The difference matters because water reaches the skin under shearling wool, so soaking it or using hot water can leave the skin stiff or shrunken. Sherpa is a fabric, so follow the care label for that. The Wikipedia entry on shearling covers the material in more detail.

Brush it about once a week

During the months you wear the jacket, a weekly brush prevents most of the problems that lead to bigger jobs:

1. Make sure the collar is completely dry.
2. Shake the jacket gently to loosen dust and lint.
3. Brush the wool lightly with a soft suede brush or a wide-tooth wool comb, working in short strokes from the base outward.
4. Finish by brushing in the direction the wool naturally lies so it settles neatly.

Go gently. Hard strokes pull fibers out and can thin the collar over time.

Spot-cleaning makeup, food and salt on the collar

• Makeup and skin oils: sprinkle cornstarch over the mark, press it in lightly and leave it overnight, then brush it out. If a trace remains, dab it with a cloth barely dampened in cool water with a few drops of wool-safe cleaner and blot with a dry towel. To prevent it, let makeup set before you put the jacket on, or wear a thin silk or cotton scarf on heavy makeup days.
• Grease and food: lift off any solid food with a blunt edge, such as a spoon, without pushing it deeper into the wool. Blot, never rub, then use the cornstarch method and give it a day before brushing.
• Road salt and snow: let the collar dry, brush out the dry salt crystals, then dab what is left with a cloth dampened in plain cool water. Deal with salt promptly, because it can dry out the skin underneath and leave white marks on the leather of the jacket itself.

A deeper clean without soaking the leather

When the whole collar looks dull or matted, follow the wool cleaning steps above with two extra precautions: tuck a dry towel under the collar so drips cannot reach the leather of the body, and never use hot water, bleach or ordinary laundry detergent. If the leather around the collar picks up marks, clean it separately using the gentle methods in our guide on how to clean a leather jacket at home.

To dry it, hang the jacket on a wide, sturdy hanger with the collar spread open so air can reach it, and allow a day or two at room temperature. Once it is fully dry, brush the wool gently from the base outward to restore its loft.

If the collar is detachable

If your collar snaps, buttons or zips off, remove it before cleaning. You can then work on it flat on a towel and dry it on its own, with no risk of moisture reaching the jacket. Use the same gentle methods: no soaking, no washing machine and no heat. Reattach it only when it is completely dry.

When the collar needs a professional

Take the jacket to a leather and sheepskin specialist if you are dealing with a large spill, a set-in or unknown stain, a lingering smell, wool that stays matted after brushing, or a stain that has spread onto the leather. Our guide to removing stains from a leather jacket can help you decide what is safe to try first.

If you are looking for a jacket with a shearling collar of its own, these styles are handmade in our workshop from genuine lambskin leather.

How do you treat grease, salt marks and other stains?

• Grease and oil: blot any excess, then cover the spot with cornstarch or talcum powder. Leave it for several hours or overnight so it draws the oil out, then brush it away. Repeat if needed, and do not add water first, which spreads oil.
• Salt marks: let the jacket dry, brush off what you can, then wipe the line with a barely damp cloth. Let it dry again and brush the nap. Repeat lightly rather than scrubbing.
• Ink, wine and dye transfer: blot, do not rub, and take the jacket to a specialist promptly.

The same routine applies to classic B-3 sheepskin bombers and to leather jackets with a shearling collar, like these pieces from our workshop.

What should you do if your shearling jacket gets wet?

1. Shake off snow or water outside as soon as you can.
2. Blot the surface with a dry towel. Press; do not rub, especially on suede.
3. Hang it on a wide, padded hanger and smooth the shoulders and collar into shape.
4. Let it dry at room temperature, away from radiators, heaters, fireplaces and direct sun. Never use a hair dryer. A thick jacket can take a day or two to dry through.
5. Once it is fully dry, brush the suede nap and comb the wool. If the hide feels a little stiff, flex it gently in your hands to soften it.

Light, dry snow brushed off straight away rarely causes trouble. Heavy wet snow and rain are where careful drying matters most.

Can you machine wash or dry clean shearling?

Never put a shearling jacket in a washing machine or tumble dryer. Soaking, agitation and heat can shrink the hide, make it stiff or cracked, and mat the wool. Standard dry cleaning designed for fabric garments is not suitable either. For a deep clean, use a cleaner that specializes in leather and sheepskin, and ask how they handle shearling before you hand it over.

How should you store a shearling jacket between winters?

• Clean, brush and fully dry it before it goes away.
• Hang it on a wide, padded hanger so the shoulders keep their shape.
• Use a breathable cotton garment bag, never a plastic dry-cleaning bag, which traps moisture.
• Keep it in a cool, dry closet out of direct light, with room around it so the wool is not crushed.
• Wool attracts moths, so a few cedar blocks nearby are a sensible precaution.

For more on closets, bags and humidity, see how to store a leather jacket.

How often should you clean shearling?

Brush regularly, spot clean marks as they happen and treat the collar wool whenever it looks tired. A professional deep clean is only needed when the jacket is heavily soiled, which for most owners means every year or two at most. Cleaning too often dries the hide, so a light, consistent routine is kinder than frequent deep cleans. If you are still deciding how to wear yours, our guide on how to wear a shearling jacket has outfit ideas.

FAQ

How do I soften matted shearling wool?

Let it dry completely, then work through small sections with a wide-tooth comb, holding the wool at the base so you do not pull on the skin. Heavily felted areas are worth showing to a specialist.

Can I use a protector spray on a shearling jacket?

A spray made for suede and sheepskin can help the outer surface shed light moisture and stains. Test it on a hidden area, apply it outdoors in a light, even coat, and keep it off the wool.

How do I get a smell out of a shearling jacket?

Air it on a wide hanger in a well-ventilated room or in shade outdoors for a day. Avoid perfume sprays on the wool, and if an odor lingers, take it to a leather and sheepskin specialist.

Why does my shearling collar look flat and matted?

Friction from hair, scarves and bags packs the wool down over time, and it gets worse if the collar dries without brushing. A gentle brush when it is dry usually lifts it again.

How often should I deep clean the collar?

Only when brushing and spot-cleaning are no longer enough, often once a season or less. Less water means less risk to the skin.

Is a shearling jacket warmer than a down jacket?

It depends on the jacket and the conditions. Our shearling vs down comparison compares the two for warmth and everyday winter wear.

Brush often, treat marks early and leave deep cleaning to a specialist, and it is simple to clean a shearling jacket without harming the hide or the wool. When you are ready for a new one, browse our shearling jackets.