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Cowhide
Cowhide is the world's most-used leather: tough, dependable and full of character.
Leather Types Guide
Leather isn't one material. The animal it comes from, the layer of the hide, how it's tanned and how it's finished all change how a jacket looks, feels and ages. This guide covers 29 leather types, each with its own in-depth article, so you can choose with confidence.
Cards marked We make this are leathers you'll find in our range. The dots show durability, from 1 to 5.
Not sure where to start?
Quick picks based on what matters most to you.
- Softest from day oneLambskin, nappa and suede.
- Toughest for riding and workSteerhide, horsehide and buffalo.
- Warmest for winterShearling, or sheepskin with the wool left on.
- Best character with ageWaxed and pull-up leather, horsehide and vegetable-tanned leather.
- Vintage look straight awayDistressed leather, often on buffalo or steerhide.
- A statement piecePython, crocodile, or python-embossed cowhide for the look at a lower price.
Cattle & buffalo
The workhorses of the leather world: strong, dependable and the backbone of most jackets.
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Steerhide
Steerhide is thick, even and tough, which is why it has been a favourite for motorcycle and heritage jackets for generations.
Calfskin
Calfskin is prized for its fine, tight grain and smooth feel.
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Buffalo
Buffalo leather has a bold, pebbled grain and serious strength.
Horse
Dense, tough leathers with a devoted following among heritage and vintage fans.
Sheep & goat
Lighter, softer leathers, from buttery lambskin to warm, wool-on shearling.
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Lambskin
Lambskin is buttery soft and light, and comfortable from the first day.
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Sheepskin
Sheepskin can mean smooth leather or a hide with the wool left on.
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Shearling
Shearling is sheepskin or lambskin tanned with its wool still attached.
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Goatskin
Goatskin is light yet surprisingly strong, with a natural pebbled grain.
Other animal leathers
Specialist leathers you'll meet in gloves, footwear and performance gear.
Exotic leathers
Statement skins with natural scales, tiles and quills. Trade in most of them is regulated.
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Python
Python leather has a striking scale pattern and a soft, flexible feel.
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Crocodile
Crocodile leather is one of the most prized leathers in the world.
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Alligator
Alligator leather is known for its smooth, even belly tiles and rich sheen.
Ostrich
Ostrich leather is instantly recognisable by its raised quill bumps.
Stingray
Stingray leather, also called shagreen or galuchat, has a beaded surface that is incredibly hard-wearing.
Leather grades
Which layer of the hide you're getting, and how much of its natural surface is left.
Surfaces & finishes
How leather is finished changes how it looks, feels and ages, whatever the animal.
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Suede
Suede has a soft, velvety nap and deep, rich colour.
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Nubuck
Nubuck has a fine, velvety surface like suede, but it's made from the tougher outer grain.
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Aniline & semi-aniline
Aniline, semi-aniline and coated leather differ in how they are coloured and protected.
Nappa
Nappa is a name for very soft, smooth grain leather, usually lamb, sheep, goat or calf.
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Pull-up (waxed & oiled)
Pull-up leather is packed with oils and waxes, so it lightens where it's bent or stretched.
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Distressed
Distressed leather is finished to look worn-in and vintage from the start.
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Embossed
Embossed leather has a pattern pressed into its surface, often crocodile or python.
Tanning methods
Tanning turns raw hide into leather. The method shapes its feel, colour and patina.
Compare jacket leathers
The main leathers used for jackets, side by side. Scroll sideways on a phone to see every column.
| Leather | Feel | Weight | Durability | Break-in | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cowhide | Firm, smooth to lightly pebbled | Medium to heavy | ●●●●● | A few weeks of regular wear | Biker, cafe racer, workwear, car coats |
| Steerhide | Thick, firm and even | Heavy | ●●●●● | Several weeks to a few months | Motorcycle, heritage and work jackets |
| Buffalo | Thick with a bold, pebbled grain | Heavy | ●●●●● | A few weeks | Bombers, workwear, bags |
| Horsehide | Dense, smooth, slightly glossy | Medium to heavy | ●●●●● | Long, then moulds to you | Flight, moto and heritage jackets |
| Lambskin | Very soft, smooth, buttery | Light | ●●●●● | Almost none | Everyday jackets, blazers, coats |
| Goatskin | Soft with a natural pebbled grain | Light to medium | ●●●●● | Short | Flight jackets, gloves, bags, bookbinding |
| Sheepskin | Soft and light (leather) or woolly (wool-on) | Light to medium | ●●●●● | Very short | Winter jackets, B-3 bombers, lining |
| Shearling | Suede or leather outside, plush wool inside | Medium to heavy | ●●●●● | Very short | Aviator and B-3 jackets, winter coats, collars |
| Suede | Soft, velvety nap | Light to medium | ●●●●● | Almost none | Trucker and bomber jackets, shoes, accessories |
| Nubuck | Fine, short, velvety nap | Medium | ●●●●● | Short | Work and moto jackets, boots |
| Python | Soft and flexible with overlapping scales | Light | ●●●●● | Almost none | Statement jackets, bags, boots, accessories |
| Crocodile | Firm, smooth tiles with a natural sheen | Medium | ●●●●● | Short | Statement jackets, bags, belts, boots |
Leather types FAQ
What is the best leather for a jacket?
It depends on how you'll wear it. For everyday wear that ages well, cowhide is a safe choice. For softness and a dressier look, choose lambskin. For riding or heavy use, steerhide, horsehide and buffalo are the toughest. Our guide to lambskin vs cowhide compares the two most popular options.
What is the softest leather?
Lambskin and nappa are the softest smooth leathers, and suede is the softest napped finish. Deerskin is also very soft and stretchy.
What is the most durable leather?
Among jacket leathers, steerhide, horsehide and buffalo are the most hard-wearing. In terms of grade, full-grain leather is the strongest because its natural surface is left intact.
Does "genuine leather" mean real leather?
Yes. At White Buraq, "genuine leather" simply means real animal leather, and we name the hide where we know it. On some other labels it is used for lower grades, which we explain in our guides to split leather and real vs fake leather.
How do I look after my leather jacket?
Wipe it clean, condition it when it feels dry, let it dry naturally if it gets wet and store it on a wide hanger. Our leather care guide and how to clean a leather jacket walk you through it.
Found your leather?
Every White Buraq jacket is made by hand in our family workshop, in sizes XS to 4XL or made to your measurements.
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