Nubuck Leather: Velvet Feel With Grain-Leather Strength
Nubuck looks and feels a lot like suede, but it's made from the outer surface of the hide. That gives it the soft touch of suede with more strength.
Nubuck at a glance
| Comes from | Grain side of cowhide or calfskin |
|---|---|
| Feel | Fine, short, velvety nap |
| Weight | Medium |
| Durability | ●●●●● |
| Break-in | Short |
| Best for | Work and moto jackets, boots |
| At White Buraq | Yes, see our oiled nubuck moto jacket |
What is nubuck?
Nubuck is grain leather, usually cowhide or calfskin, whose outer surface has been lightly sanded to raise a very short, fine nap. Because the strong grain layer is still there, nubuck is more durable than most suede.
Oiled nubuck is nubuck treated with oils or waxes. It has a darker, slightly waxy look, resists water better and shows a pull-up effect when flexed.
How nubuck looks and feels
It has a smooth, velvety surface with a matt finish. Running your hand across it changes the shade slightly. Oiled nubuck looks richer and ages with a worn-in, vintage character.
Pros and cons
- Pros: soft touch, stronger than suede, breathable, ages well, especially when oiled.
- Cons: marks and absorbs stains more than smooth leather; needs brushing and protection.
What nubuck is best for
Work and moto jackets, boots and casual shoes, and bags. It's a good choice if you like the suede look but want something tougher.
How to care for nubuck
Brush it with a nubuck or suede brush, treat it with a protector spray, and use a nubuck eraser for marks. Oiled nubuck can be refreshed with a matching wax or oil. Let it dry naturally if it gets wet.
Nubuck vs suede
Suede is buffed on the underside and is softer with a longer nap. Nubuck is buffed on the grain side, so it's more hard-wearing.
Nubuck at White Buraq
We make nubuck styles such as our distressed brown oiled nubuck moto jacket and nubuck cowhide mechanic's jacket.
How nubuck ages
Plain nubuck slowly loses a little of its nap where it rubs most, such as cuffs, pocket edges and the front of the collar. Those areas become smoother and slightly darker, which gives a jacket a worn-in look. Regular brushing lifts the nap again and keeps the colour even.
Oiled nubuck ages more dramatically. It darkens with wear, shows pull-up lightening where it bends, and develops a rich, vintage character within a season or two of regular use. Small marks often blend in after a good brush or a little rubbing with your hand, because the oils move around in the leather.
Protecting nubuck from rain and stains
- Before first wear: treat plain nubuck with a protector spray made for nubuck and suede, and repeat a few times a season.
- In the rain: light showers are fine, especially for oiled nubuck. Don't wear plain nubuck in heavy rain.
- When it gets wet: blot it, let it dry naturally away from heaters, then brush the nap back up.
- Stains: deal with them early. Use a nubuck eraser for dry marks and blot oily spots rather than rubbing them.
Our guides on wearing a leather jacket in the rain and cleaning a suede jacket cover the same techniques, which work for nubuck too.
Who nubuck suits best
Nubuck is a good choice if you like the soft, matt look of suede but want a jacket that copes better with everyday use. It suits work jackets, moto jackets and casual styles in brown, tan and earthy shades. If you want a jacket you can wear hard without thinking about it, choose oiled nubuck or a smooth leather. If you want the softest possible touch for lighter wear, suede may suit you better. See also our trucker and workwear jackets.
Nubuck vs smooth leather
Smooth grain leather has a sealed, finished surface, so it wipes clean and shrugs off rain and spills more easily than nubuck. Nubuck's sanded surface feels softer and warmer to the touch and has a matt, relaxed look, but it marks more readily and needs brushing. If low maintenance matters most, choose smooth cowhide or a waxed pull-up leather. If you want texture and a soft hand, and don't mind a little care, nubuck is a great choice.
Ordering a nubuck jacket from us
Our nubuck jackets are made by hand in our family workshop in Sialkot, Pakistan, which has been working leather since 1998. They come in standard sizes, or most styles can be made to your measurements for $30 more. Shipping is free within the US with duties included, and standard sizes can be returned within 30 days.
Frequently asked questions
Is nubuck better than suede?
Nubuck is more durable because it's made from the outer grain. Suede is softer. Which is better depends on how you'll wear it.
Is nubuck waterproof?
No, but oiled nubuck and a protector spray help it resist light rain.
How do I clean nubuck?
Brush it with a nubuck brush and use a nubuck eraser on marks. Avoid soaking it.
Does nubuck darken over time?
A little, mostly where it's handled. Oiled nubuck darkens more and also lightens where it bends, which gives it a vintage look.
Can I use leather conditioner on nubuck?
Not a regular cream conditioner on plain nubuck, as it can mat the nap. Use nubuck products. Oiled nubuck can take a matching wax or oil.
Related leather types
- Suede: Suede has a soft, velvety nap and deep, rich colour.
- Pull-up (waxed & oiled): Pull-up leather is packed with oils and waxes, so it lightens where it's bent or stretched.
- Distressed: Distressed leather is finished to look worn-in and vintage from the start.
- Cowhide: Cowhide is the world's most-used leather: tough, dependable and full of character.
Explore every leather in our leather types guide, see our leather care guide, or contact us for help choosing a jacket.