Leather Jacket Guides

Most leather jackets are graded up and down from a single mid-size pattern, so the further your body sits from that middle, the more small compromises pile up. Shopping for a big and tall leather jacket often means choosing between the size that fits your chest and the one that fits your arms and torso, and neither is quite right. This guide explains where standard sizing breaks down and how to get a jacket that fits you properly.

Why standard sizes let bigger and taller men down

A size chart assumes that chest, waist, arm length and height all rise together at a fixed rate. Real bodies don't work that way. A man with a 50-inch chest might be 5'8" or 6'5", and he might carry his size in his shoulders, his stomach or both.

Clothing makers usually split the problem in two. Big sizes add room through the chest, waist and upper arms. Tall sizes add length to the body and sleeves and are generally aimed at men over about 6'2". Leather jackets are rarely offered in both, which is why so many men end up settling.

The most common fit problems

If any of these sound familiar, the jacket isn't wrong for your body; the pattern simply wasn't drafted for it.

• The zip ripples across the stomach. The jacket fits your chest, but the pattern's waist is too narrow, so the front pulls into horizontal creases.
• The shoulders hang off when you size up. Going up a size finally closes the front, but the shoulder seams slide down onto your upper arms.
• The sleeves are too short. Sleeve length grows slowly between sizes, so even a bigger jacket can stop above the wrist, especially when you reach forward or drive.
• The hem rides up. A jacket designed to end at the belt on an average frame ends above it on a longer torso, and a fuller stomach lifts the front hem further.
• The upper arms feel tight. Leather has very little give, so a narrow sleeve is noticeable every time you bend your elbow.

Leather does soften and mold to you with wear, but it won't grow a size. Our guide on whether leather jackets stretch explains how much give to expect, and it's less than most people hope.

How a big and tall leather jacket should fit

The fit rules are the same as for any leather jacket. The difference is that you apply them to your own proportions instead of a chart's.

• Shoulders: the seam sits at the outer edge of your shoulder bone. This is the hardest area to alter later, so get it right first.
• Chest and stomach: zipped over a T-shirt or light knit, the front lies flat with no pull lines radiating from the zip.
• Upper arms: you can bend your elbow and cross your arms without the sleeve gripping.
• Sleeves: they reach the base of your thumb with arms relaxed and still cover your wrist bone when you reach forward.
• Length: a jacket should comfortably cover your belt when you raise your arms; a coat should end exactly where you intended.

For the full checklist, see how a leather jacket should fit.

Leather jacket styles that suit bigger and taller frames

Some styles are more forgiving because of how they're cut. Look at the hem, the front closure and the collar before anything else.

Trucker and delivery jackets

A straight hem and a center front give a clean vertical line with no elastic band gripping at the waist. A shirt-style collar stays in proportion on a broad chest, and a button front lets you choose how closed you wear it. Our trucker and workwear jackets all share this easy cut.

Car coats and mid-length coats

Ending around mid-thigh, a car coat covers the hips fully and doesn't ride up when you sit or lift your arms. On a tall frame the extra length looks deliberate rather than short. It also goes over a suit jacket or a heavy sweater without strain.

A-2 flight jackets

The A-2 has a roomy body and relaxed sleeves gathered at knit cuffs and a knit waistband, which suits broad shoulders well. If your midsection is larger, give your true waist measurement so the waistband rests comfortably instead of pulling in.

Styles that need accurate measurements

Short biker jackets and cropped bombers can look great on a big frame, but they leave little margin: an inch too short and the hem sits above the belt. Belted jackets add a layer of leather at the waist. None of these are off-limits; they simply need exact length and waist numbers.

Three reliable starting points from our range: the Men's Black Cowhide Leather Car Coat for length and coverage, the Men's Black Natural-Finish Cowhide Trucker Jacket for a straight, easy cut, and the Men's Cowhide A-2 Flight Jacket with Zip-Out Liner for a relaxed classic shape.

Men's Black Cowhide Leather Car Coat Men's Black Natural-Finish Cowhide Trucker Jacket Men's Cowhide A-2 Flight Jacket with Zip-Out Liner

Leather weight, lining and comfort

Heavyweight cowhide and horsehide are tough and hold their structure, but they take longer to break in and can feel stiff across a broad back at first. Lambskin is lighter and moves with you from the first wear. Our lambskin vs cowhide comparison covers the trade-off in detail.

Check the lining too. A quilted or zip-out liner adds warmth but takes up room inside, so allow for it when you measure. If you run warm, an unlined or lightly lined jacket will be more comfortable indoors and in the car.

Made to measure: the reliable fix

When standard sizes force a trade-off, made to measure removes it. The jacket is cut to your measurements rather than to a size chart, so a long torso and a broad chest no longer compete.

1. Choose "Customise Size (made to measure)" on the product page and place your order.
2. Measure your chest, shoulders, sleeve length, waist, hips and jacket length. Our guide on how to measure for a leather jacket walks through each one.
3. Email info@whiteburaq.com with your order number and those measurements, plus a note about anything specific, such as a longer back or extra room at the stomach.

Made-to-measure jackets ship within 3 to 7 business days. Express delivery then takes 3 to 5 business days in the US and 5 to 8 business days elsewhere. Because each jacket is cut to your numbers, made-to-measure pieces can't be returned, so take your time and ask someone to help with the tape. The made-to-measure page has the full details.

Measuring tips for bigger and taller builds

• Measure your chest and your stomach separately over a T-shirt, keeping the tape level, snug and not tight.
• Measure sleeves from the shoulder point over a slightly bent elbow to the wrist bone, so you have room to reach.
• For jacket length, decide where you want the hem to land, then measure from the base of the collar at the back down to that point.
• Lay a jacket that already fits you well flat on a table and measure it. It's a useful cross-check against your body numbers.

FAQ

What size leather jacket should a big and tall man buy?

Buy for your shoulders and chest first, then check sleeve and body length against your own measurements. If no single size covers all of them, made to measure will give a better result than sizing up.

Do leather jackets come in tall sizes?

Few ready-to-wear leather jackets are offered in tall lengths. Made to measure is the simplest way to add body and sleeve length without also getting a wider cut.

Will a leather jacket stretch to fit a bigger chest?

Leather relaxes slightly and molds to your shape over time, but it won't gain a full size. Choose a jacket that zips comfortably from the first day.

Which leather jacket style is best for a larger stomach?

Styles with a straight hem and a center front, such as truckers, delivery jackets and car coats, tend to sit most comfortably. The key is a waist measurement that matches yours so the front lies flat.

Finding a big and tall leather jacket that fits well is about proportions, not settling for the nearest size. Start with our size guide, compare it with your own measurements, and if the chart doesn't match your build, choose made to measure on any style in our men's leather jackets collection.