Roughout vs Suede: What's the Difference in a Leather Jacket?

Roughout and suede both have a soft, brushed surface, so they are easy to mix up on a hanger. The real difference lies in which part of the hide faces out and how thick the leather is, and that shapes how a jacket wears. This guide to roughout vs suede explains both, compares them side by side and covers how to care for each.

What is roughout leather?

A hide has two main layers. The outer grain layer is dense and tightly packed, which gives smooth leather its strength. Below it sits a looser web of fibers, and the underside of that is called the flesh side.

Roughout keeps both layers together but turns the hide over, so the flesh side becomes the outside of the jacket and the smooth grain faces in toward the lining. The surface may be lightly buffed or left fairly raw, which gives roughout its coarse, slightly shaggy nap. Because the grain is still there, the leather keeps the strength and body of the full hide. Scuffs and marks tend to blend into the rough surface instead of standing out, so roughout looks much the same after hard use as it did on day one. It is usually made from sturdy hides such as cowhide.

What is suede?

Suede is leather with a napped, velvety surface raised from the inner fibers of the hide. Most cowhide suede is made from a split: the hide is sliced horizontally, the grain layer goes on to become smooth leather, and the lower layer is buffed into suede. Because it has no grain layer, a split is fibrous on both sides. Our guide to split leather explains how splitting works.

Finer suedes made from lamb, goat or calf are thinner and buffed to a short, even nap with a soft, drapey hand. Without the dense grain layer, suede is more prone to stretching and wear than full-thickness leather, and it soaks up liquids and stains more readily. Learn more in our full guide to suede leather.

Suede is also different from nubuck, which is the grain side sanded to a fine nap. Our comparison of nubuck vs suede jackets covers that difference.

Roughout vs suede: how do they compare?

Where does roughout come from?

Roughout has deep roots in work and military footwear. During the Second World War, army service shoes and later combat boots were made with the leather turned rough side out. Soldiers were expected to work dubbin, a dressing of wax and oils, into the surface to help the boots shed water.

The same toughness made roughout a long-standing choice for work boots, western boots and saddle seats, where a grippy, hard-wearing surface matters more than polish. Roughout jackets borrow that heritage, with a rugged, matte look that suits workwear cuts.

Here is how the two finishes look in real jackets, from a rugged roughout work jacket to softer suede trucker and fringe styles.

Men's Distressed Brown Roughout Cowhide Work JacketWomen's Brown Suede Trucker JacketMen's Brown Suede Western Fringe Jacket

How do you care for roughout and suede?

Caring for roughout

• Brush it with a stiff-bristled brush to lift dirt and revive the nap.
• Rub out marks with a suede eraser, then brush again.
• If it gets wet, let it dry naturally at room temperature, then brush.
• Wax or oil dressings darken and smooth roughout. That can be a deliberate look, but spot-test on a hidden area first, because the change is hard to undo.

Caring for suede

• Brush gently with a soft suede brush after wear to keep the nap even.
• Use a suede eraser on small marks and shiny spots.
• Apply a protector spray made for suede, testing it inside a hem first, and reapply as the label suggests.
• Blot spills right away instead of rubbing, and let wet suede dry away from heat before brushing.
• Take oil or grease stains to a leather specialist.

For a full routine, see our guide on how to clean a suede jacket.

How do roughout and suede age?

Roughout ages slowly. The nap flattens a little at the elbows, cuffs and pocket edges, and the color tends to darken where hands and skin oils touch it, which many owners enjoy as part of its workwear character. A firm brushing brings much of the texture back.

Suede changes more visibly. High-contact areas can wear smooth or shiny, and the color can soften with sunlight and use. Regular brushing and an eraser keep that in check, and a gentle, even fade often suits suede's relaxed look.

Which should you choose for a leather jacket?

Choose roughout if you want a jacket you can wear hard without worrying, if you work or spend time outdoors, or if you like a rugged, matte look that gets better with knocks and scuffs.

Choose suede if you want a lighter, softer jacket with more drape and richer color, and you are happy to keep it out of heavy rain. Suede is a classic for trucker jackets, which our leather trucker jacket guide covers, and for western fringe styles. Browse our women's suede jackets for softer options.

FAQ

Is roughout the same as reverse suede?

They are close relatives. Both keep the full hide with the grain facing inward. Reverse suede is usually buffed to a finer, more even nap, while roughout is left coarser.

Is roughout waterproof?

No. Roughout absorbs water like any napped leather, but a wax or oil dressing helps it shed rain, at the cost of a darker, smoother look.

Is suede weaker than roughout?

Split suede lacks the dense grain layer, so it is less resistant to stretching and tearing. With sensible care, it still makes a comfortable, long-lasting jacket.

Which is warmer, roughout or suede?

A full-thickness roughout jacket usually feels more substantial and holds off a breeze a little better, but the lining makes the bigger difference to warmth in either finish.

Can you wear suede in the rain?

Light drizzle is usually fine on treated suede. Avoid heavy rain, and if it gets soaked, let it dry naturally and brush the nap once it is fully dry.

In the roughout vs suede choice there is no wrong answer, only a trade between toughness and softness. Explore our men's suede jackets to find the finish that suits the way you live.