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Leather Jacket Guides

Split Leather: What It Is and Where It Belongs

Leather work gloves
Leather work gloves, a classic use for split leather. Photo: el cajon yacht club, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons.

When a thick hide is sliced into layers, the top becomes grain leather and what's underneath is called split leather. It's real leather, but it has different strengths and weaknesses.

Split at a glance

Comes from Lower layers of the hide
Feel Fibrous; often sueded or coated
Weight Varies
Durability ●●●●●
Break-in Short
Best for Suede, work gloves, linings, budget goods

What is split leather?

A splitting machine slices the hide horizontally. The upper piece keeps the grain and becomes full-grain or top-grain leather. The lower piece, the split, has no grain surface and is made of looser fibres. It can be sanded into suede, or coated and embossed to look like grain leather.

Cross-section of a hide: the grain on top is kept in full-grain leather, lightly sanded in top-grain leather, and the lower corium layer becomes split leather Grain Full-grain keeps this surface intact Grain / corium junction Top-grain: surface lightly sanded Corium (looser fibres) Split leather comes from here, used for suede or coated leather splitting line Simplified; thickness varies by animal and use.
The layers of a hide. Illustration: White Buraq.

Common kinds of split leather

  • Split suede: the split is buffed into a nap. Much of the suede sold today is split suede.
  • Coated or corrected split: a pigmented or plastic finish is applied and embossed with a grain pattern.
  • Bicast: a split with a thick polyurethane layer on top, giving a glossy look. It's cheaper but can wear or peel.

Pros and cons

  • Pros: affordable, real leather, ideal for suede and work gloves.
  • Cons: weaker than grain leather; coated splits can crack or peel; doesn't develop a patina.

What split leather is best for

Suede items, work gloves, welding aprons, linings and budget accessories.

How to care for split leather

Treat split suede like any suede, with a brush and a protector spray. Wipe coated splits with a damp cloth and avoid solvents.

A note on "genuine leather"

On some labels, "genuine leather" is used for lower grades such as coated splits. At White Buraq we use "genuine leather" simply to mean real animal leather, not a grade, and we name the leather where we know it. Learn to tell leathers apart in real vs fake leather.

Frequently asked questions

Is split leather real leather?

Yes. It comes from the lower layers of a real hide, but it lacks the strong grain surface.

Is suede split leather?

Often, yes. Much suede is made from splits, though suede can also be made from the flesh side of a full hide such as lambskin.

What is bicast leather?

Split leather with a polyurethane coating on top. It looks glossy but is less durable than grain leather.

Related leather types

  • Suede: Suede has a soft, velvety nap and deep, rich colour.
  • Full-grain: Full-grain is leather with its natural surface left intact.
  • Top-grain: Top-grain leather comes from the top of the hide but has its surface lightly sanded and refinished for an even, clean look.
  • Pigskin: Pigskin is breathable and affordable, and you can spot it by its pores grouped in threes.

Explore all 30 leathers in our leather types guide, see our leather care guide, or contact us for help choosing a jacket.

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