Leather Jacket Guides

A lot of jackets sold as "leather" today are made of plastic. Faux leather has its place, but it doesn't wear, age or last like the real thing. Here's how to tell real leather from fake, what the common labels mean, and how to pick the right leather for you.

What real leather is

Real leather is animal hide that has been tanned so it stays soft and doesn't rot. Because it comes from a living animal, no two hides are the same. It breathes, it softens and shapes itself to you with wear, and it builds a patina over the years.

Faux leather goes by many names: PU leather, PVC, vinyl, leatherette, pleather or "vegan leather". It's usually a plastic coating on a fabric backing, printed with a grain pattern. It can look good when new, but the coating tends to crack and peel with time, and it can't be repaired or conditioned the way leather can.

In the US, the Federal Trade Commission's guides for leather products say that anything made to look like leather, but isn't, should be labeled as imitation or not leather. Always read the label and the product description.

Leather grades in plain English

• Full-grain: the whole outer surface of the hide, with its natural grain left intact. It's the strongest and ages the best.
• Top-grain: the outer layer with the surface lightly sanded or corrected, then finished. Smooth and even, but a little less rugged than full-grain.
• Suede: the inner side of the hide, brushed to a soft nap. Split suede comes from the lower layer of a hide that has been split in two.
• Nubuck: the outer grain side, lightly sanded to a velvety feel. It looks like suede but is stronger.
• Bonded leather: leather scraps ground up and glued onto a backing. It's cheap and doesn't last. Avoid it for jackets.

7 ways to tell real leather from fake

1. Look at the grain. Real leather has small pores, creases and variations that never repeat exactly. Fake leather often has a perfectly even pattern that repeats across the panel.
2. Check a cut edge. Look inside a seam, pocket or hem. Real leather has a fibrous, suede-like edge. Fake leather shows a smooth plastic layer on top of woven or knitted fabric.
3. Press it. Push a fingertip into real leather and it wrinkles and gathers a little, like skin. Fake leather tends to keep its shape or dent flat.
4. Feel it. Real leather warms up in your hands and feels slightly supple. Plastic stays cool and can feel slick or rubbery.
5. Smell it. Real leather has a rich, natural smell. Faux leather often smells of plastic or chemicals.
6. Try a drop of water on a hidden spot (not on suede). Untreated real leather soaks up a small drop slowly. Plastic lets it bead and roll off. Waxed and finished leathers repel water too, so use this test alongside the others.
7. Check the price and details. A full leather jacket takes several hides and many hours of work. A price that seems too good to be true usually is. Look for honest details: the type of hide, how it's made and where.

Skip the "burn test" you may see online. It damages the jacket and doesn't tell you much that the steps above don't.

Which leather is right for you?

For more on each hide and on finishes such as waxed, distressed and aniline, see our leather types page.

What we use

Every White Buraq jacket is made from genuine leather and handmade in our family workshop, which has worked with leather since 1998. We use YKK zips and choose the hide to suit each style. Because every hide is different, small marks and variations in grain are a sign of real leather, not a flaw. See how your jacket is made.

Real leather lasts for decades with a little care. Our leather care guide shows you how.

Ready to choose? Browse all leather jackets, or read leather jacket styles explained.