Leather Jacket Guides

Suede and smooth leather come from the same hides, yet they look, feel and behave very differently once you start wearing them. If you are weighing up a suede vs leather jacket, the right choice depends less on quality and more on your weather, your routine and how much care you are happy to give. This guide compares the two on care, rain, durability and look.

What is the difference between suede and leather?

All suede is leather. The difference is which side of the skin faces out and how it is finished. A smooth leather jacket shows the grain, the tight outer surface of the hide, which is dense and fairly closed. Suede is buffed on the inner side of the skin, known as the flesh side, which raises a short, soft nap of fibers.

That nap gives suede its velvety handle and matte look, and it is also why suede behaves differently. The open fibers soak up water, oil and dirt far more readily than a sealed grain surface. Suede is often made from a split, the lower layer of a hide once the grain has been separated, which tends to make it thinner and more flexible. Our guide to suede leather explains how it is produced.

Two close relatives sit between the two. Nubuck leather is grain leather lightly sanded to a very fine nap, so it feels like suede but is a little tougher. Roughout is a full hide turned so the flesh side faces out, giving a suede-like surface with more body underneath.

Suede vs leather jacket at a glance

Care: how much work is each?

Caring for smooth leather

Smooth leather is low maintenance. Wipe off dust and light marks with a soft, slightly damp cloth, let the jacket dry on a wide hanger, and apply a leather conditioner once or twice a year or whenever the surface starts to look dry. Most everyday spills can be blotted away if you catch them quickly. Our step-by-step guide on conditioning a leather jacket covers products and timing.

Caring for suede

Suede needs a different toolkit, and cream conditioners are not part of it because they flatten and darken the nap. Keep these three things at home instead:

• A suede brush: soft brass or nylon bristles lift the nap and remove dust. Brush lightly in one direction after every few wears.
• A suede eraser: rubs out scuffs, shiny patches and dry marks without any liquid.
• A suede protector spray: a water- and stain-repellent spray applied to a clean, dry jacket before the first wear and topped up every few months. Test it on a hidden area first, since some sprays slightly deepen the color.

Grease is suede's biggest enemy. Blot a fresh oil mark at once, cover it with a little cornstarch or talc to draw the oil out, and brush it away after a few hours. Deep or old stains are best left to a leather cleaning specialist.

Suede vs leather in the rain

This is where the two differ most. Smooth leather has a natural resistance to water, so a short shower usually leaves nothing more than a few drops to wipe off. If it gets soaked, blot it with a towel, hang it at room temperature away from radiators and direct heat, and condition it once it is fully dry. Our guide to wearing a leather jacket in the rain goes through the details.

Suede drinks water. It darkens while wet, can dry with tide marks, and the nap may stiffen. A protector spray makes a real difference, but it slows water down rather than stopping it.

If your suede jacket does get caught out:

1. Blot the surface gently with a clean, dry towel. Press rather than rub.
2. Hang it on a wide, shaped hanger so it dries in shape.
3. Let it dry naturally at room temperature, never with a hair dryer or on a heater.
4. Once it is fully dry, brush the nap back up.
5. If a water line remains, dampen the whole panel evenly with a barely wet sponge and let it dry again so it settles to one tone.

If you live somewhere wet, keep suede for dry forecasts and make smooth leather your everyday jacket.

Which is more durable?

With sensible care, both a suede and a smooth leather jacket can be worn for many years. They simply wear differently. Smooth leather resists scuffs and stains better, and everyday creases tend to blend into a patina that many owners come to love.

Suede shows its history more. The nap can flatten and turn shiny at the cuffs, elbows and pocket edges, and rubbing from bag straps shows up sooner. Regular brushing revives much of that wear, but a suede jacket worn hard every day will look older sooner than a smooth one. Hide quality and thickness matter as much as the finish, as our guide on how long a leather jacket lasts explains.

Look and style

Suede reads softer and more relaxed. Its matte surface absorbs light, so colors such as tobacco, tan, sand and chocolate brown look warm and rich. It is at home with denim, knitwear, chinos and boots, and it carries western details such as fringe and pointed yokes naturally. If that look appeals, our guide on how to wear a fringe leather jacket has outfit ideas.

Smooth leather covers a wider range. Black looks sharp and a little edgy, brown reads rugged or vintage, and both dress up easily with a fine knit and tailored trousers.

Seeing the same shape in both finishes is the easiest way to compare. The Women's Brown Suede Trucker Jacket and the Women's Dark Brown Lambskin Trucker Jacket share a classic trucker cut, one with a soft matte nap and one with a smooth surface. For men, the Men's Brown Suede Western Fringe Jacket shows how naturally suede takes on western detailing.

Women's Brown Suede Trucker Jacket Women's Dark Brown Lambskin Trucker Jacket Men's Brown Suede Western Fringe Jacket

Which should you choose?

• Choose suede if you live somewhere fairly dry, want a soft, relaxed jacket for weekends and travel, like earthy tones and western details, and don't mind brushing and spraying it now and then.
• Choose smooth leather if you want one jacket for daily wear in changeable weather, need it to cope with commuting, bags and the odd spill, or want something you can dress up as well as down.
• Consider nubuck or roughout if you love the napped look but want a bit more toughness. The Men's Distressed Brown Roughout Cowhide Work Jacket and the Men's Distressed Brown Oiled Nubuck Moto Jacket are good examples.

Many people end up owning both: smooth leather for most days and suede for dry weekends. Our leather types hub describes every hide and finish we work with.

FAQ

Is suede real leather?

Yes. Suede is genuine leather with the inner side of the skin buffed to a soft nap. Imitation suede made from synthetic microfiber also exists, so check the product description when you shop.

Can you wear a suede jacket in the rain?

A treated suede jacket can cope with a brief light shower, but it is best kept for dry days. If it gets wet, blot it, let it dry naturally away from heat, and brush the nap once it is dry.

Is suede or leather warmer?

Warmth depends mostly on the lining and the fit. Smooth leather blocks wind slightly better, but a lined suede jacket and a lined leather jacket feel much the same on a cool day.

Does suede last as long as leather?

With care, a suede jacket can be worn for many years, but it shows wear sooner at the cuffs, elbows and pockets. Smooth leather hides everyday scuffs better and usually ages more gracefully under heavy use.

Can you condition suede?

Not with the creams used on smooth leather, which flatten and darken the nap. Use a suede brush, a suede eraser and a protector spray instead.

If the soft, matte look has won you over, browse our women's suede jackets and men's suede jackets. If you need one jacket for every forecast, smooth leather is the safer pick. Either way, the suede vs leather jacket decision comes down to your weather and how you like to wear it.