Leather Jacket Guides

The biker leather jacket is probably the most recognizable piece of outerwear ever made: short, fitted and built around a diagonal zip. Almost every one of its details began as a fix for a problem riders faced on the road. Here is what each feature does, how the jacket should fit and how to wear it now.

What is a biker leather jacket?

It is a hip-length motorcycle jacket defined by a zip that runs at an angle from the hem toward one shoulder. When the jacket is open, the front panels fold back into broad lapels. When it is zipped, one panel overlaps the other across the chest.

That construction sets it apart from other riding styles. A cafe racer jacket, for example, has a straight center zip and a small band collar. The biker is the boldest of the family, with the most hardware and the most attitude.

A short history of the biker jacket

The asymmetrical motorcycle jacket appeared in the United States in the late 1920s, when riders needed something tougher and more wind-resistant than a cloth coat. Leather was the obvious material, often heavy horsehide or cowhide, and the cut was kept short so it wouldn't bunch in the saddle.

After the Second World War, motorcycle clubs made the style their own, and by the 1950s it had become shorthand for youthful rebellion. In the 1970s the punk scene pushed it further, covering jackets in studs, pins and paint. Since then it has become a wardrobe staple for men and women, worn far more often on sidewalks than on bikes.

What each biker jacket detail does

Nothing on a classic biker is purely decorative. Knowing why each part is there helps you judge whether a jacket is well made.

• Asymmetrical zip. The off-center zip lets the front panels overlap, putting a double layer of leather over the chest to block wind. It also keeps the zip from pressing into your chest and chin when you lean forward.
• Snap-down lapels. Snaps hold the lapels flat so they don't flap in the wind. Unsnapped and zipped to the top, many bikers close right up to the neck.
• Belt. A belt at the hem cinches the jacket so wind can't blow up the back. Today many people leave it loose or buckle it behind.
• Zip cuffs. Zipped, they close the sleeve neatly over a glove. Open, they leave room for a watch or a bulky shirt cuff.
• Pockets. Typically a slanted zip chest pocket, two zip hand pockets and often a small flapped coin pocket at the hip. Zips keep everything in place on the move.
• Epaulets. Snap-down shoulder straps that add structure to the outline. Riders once tucked their gloves under them.
• Action back. Gussets or pleats behind the shoulders give extra reach toward the handlebars. Some jackets add quilted panels for flexibility.

Popular biker jacket variations

The classic template has inspired plenty of versions. The core stays the same, while the details change the mood.

• Classic asymmetrical: wide lapels, diagonal zip and zips on every pocket. The most versatile choice.
• Belted: a full belt emphasizes the waist and looks the most traditional.
• Polo or snap-tab collar: a smaller collar in place of wide lapels, for a cleaner neckline. Our Men's Black Leather Biker Jacket with Polo Collar is a good example.
• Quilted: stitched panels on the shoulders or sleeves add texture and a vintage feel.
• Studded: metal studs on the lapels and shoulders give a harder, rock-inspired look.
• Cropped: many women's versions end at the natural waist, which pairs well with high-rise trousers and dresses.

Choosing the leather and weight

The same biker pattern feels very different in different hides. Think about how often you'll wear it and how much time you're happy to spend breaking it in.

• Heavyweight cowhide, steerhide or horsehide: firm and structured at first, with a rugged look. It takes a few weeks of regular wear to soften, then molds to your arms and shoulders.
• Lambskin: soft and light from day one, with a smoother drape and a slight sheen. It's the easier choice for wearing over a shirt or a dress.
• Finish: distressed, waxed and pebbled finishes hide scuffs and look lived-in, while smooth black looks the sharpest.

Men's Black Heavyweight Cowhide Asymmetrical Biker Jacket Men's Lambskin Asymmetrical Biker Jacket Women's Black Leather Biker Jacket with Lapel Collar

If you're weighing up the tougher hides, our horsehide vs cowhide comparison explains how they differ in feel and aging.

How a biker leather jacket should fit

Bikers are cut shorter and closer than most leather jackets, so the fit window is narrower. Check these points in front of a mirror.

• Length: the hem should land at your belt or just below it. Any longer and the proportions look off.
• Shoulders: the seam sits on the edge of your shoulder bone, with no overhang.
• Chest: zipped over a T-shirt or light knit, it feels snug, yet you can breathe deeply and cross your arms.
• Sleeves: a touch long is fine. A little stacking at the wrist is part of the look, and the zip cuffs keep it tidy.
• Worn open: the lapels should lie flat and the front panels hang straight rather than flaring out.

Leather relaxes slightly as it warms to your body, but it won't gain a full size, so don't buy tight hoping it will loosen. Our guide on whether leather jackets stretch covers what to expect.

Start with the size guide. For a closer fit, pick "Customise Size (made to measure)" on the product page and email info@whiteburaq.com with your order number and your chest, shoulders, sleeve length, waist, hips and jacket length. Made-to-measure jackets ship within 3–7 business days, followed by express delivery of 3–5 business days in the US or 5–8 elsewhere.

Because each one is cut to your numbers, made-to-measure jackets can't be returned. The made-to-measure page walks you through measuring.

How to wear a biker jacket

The hardware and lapels already make a strong statement, so keep what's underneath simple and let the jacket carry the outfit.

• The classic: white or black T-shirt, slim dark jeans and leather boots, with the jacket open and the lapels snapped down.
• Smarter: an oxford shirt or fine merino crewneck with gray chinos or wool trousers and suede boots. A black or dark brown biker looks surprisingly polished this way.
• Cold days: a hoodie or chunky knit underneath, with the jacket zipped up on the diagonal.
• For women: a slip dress or midi skirt with ankle boots, or a fitted knit with wide-leg trousers. The contrast between soft fabric and tough leather is the point.

Avoid stacking too many other hard-edged pieces at once, such as heavy chains, studded belts and combat boots, unless that's the look you want. For more pairings, see what to wear with a leather jacket.

Breaking in and caring for your biker jacket

Heavier bikers soften fastest when you simply wear them: bend your arms, reach forward and let the leather crease where you move. Our tips on softening a leather jacket can speed things up.

Wipe the leather with a damp cloth when it gets dusty, condition it once or twice a year and rub a little beeswax along stiff zips. Hang it on a broad hanger with the belt buckled so the buckle doesn't swing and scratch the leather. With that care, a well-made genuine leather biker can be worn for many years.

FAQ

Why is the zip on a biker jacket off-center?

The diagonal zip lets the front panels overlap to block wind and keeps the zip from pressing into you when you lean over the handlebars. It also lets the front fold open into lapels.

Is a biker jacket the same as a moto jacket?

Yes, the terms are used interchangeably. Both usually mean the asymmetrical-zip style, while a cafe racer has a center zip and a band collar.

Should you wear a biker jacket zipped or open?

Open is the everyday default, with the lapels snapped flat. Zip it up in cold or windy weather, when the overlapping front adds warmth.

How long should a biker jacket be?

It should end at your belt line or just past it. Women's cropped versions are designed to sit at the natural waist.

Ready to find yours? Browse our men's biker jackets and women's biker jackets to choose a biker leather jacket in the leather, finish and fit that suit you.