Leather Jacket Guides

A leather bomber jacket is the relaxed, easygoing member of the leather jacket family. Its knit cuffs and hem give it a soft, bloused shape that works with everything from T-shirts to tailoring. This guide covers where it came from, what separates a good one from a poor one, and how to wear it.

What makes a leather bomber jacket?

The defining feature is the knit. Rib-knit cuffs and a rib-knit waistband pull the jacket in at the wrists and hips, while the leather body stays fuller. That contrast creates the classic blouson shape: roomy through the chest and back, neat at the edges.

Most bombers close with a center zip that runs up to the collar, and they usually have two slanted or welt hand pockets. The rounded, easy outline is what separates a bomber from a biker jacket, which is fitted, often belted and zipped on the diagonal.

Where the bomber jacket came from

The style began in the cockpit. Early military aircraft had open or unheated cockpits, so pilots and crews needed leather jackets that kept the wind out at the neck, wrists and waist.

In 1931 the US Army Air Corps adopted the A-2, a leather jacket with a shirt collar, knit cuffs and a knit waistband. A few years later, crews flying high-altitude bombers received the heavy B-3, made of sheepskin with the wool left on the inside. The US Navy developed its own leather flight jacket with a mouton collar, which became the G-1.

The rib-knit collar arrived with the nylon flight jackets of the 1950s, partly because bulky collars got in the way of parachute harnesses. Civilians adopted all of these jackets after the wars, and today's leather bomber with a knit collar, cuffs and hem blends that history into one shape. Our A-2 vs B-3 guide covers the two best-known originals.

Rib-knit collar, cuffs and hem: what to check

The knit trims are what make a bomber a bomber, and they are also the first part to show wear. Look at them closely before you buy.

• Density: good ribbing is thick and springy and snaps back when you stretch it. Thin, loose knit sags after a season.
• Fiber: wool or wool-blend ribbing tends to hold its shape best and stays warm even when damp.
• Attachment: the knit should be sewn to the leather with a neat, even seam, with no puckering or loose threads where the two meet.
• Waistband tension: it should hug your hips without squeezing. If it rides above your belt when you raise your arms, the jacket is too short or too small.
• Cuffs: they should sit at the wrist bone and hold the sleeve in place, trapping warmth without leaving marks.
• Collar: a knit collar should stand up neatly when zipped and lie flat when open.

Worn ribbing can be replaced by a leather repair specialist, so tired cuffs don't mean the end of a jacket. Keeping the knit dry and free of lint makes it last much longer.

Leather bomber collar styles

The collar sets the tone of the jacket and decides how warm it feels. There are four main options.

• Rib-knit collar: sporty, clean and the easiest to layer under a coat. Our Men's Black Leather Bomber Jacket with Ribbed Collar is the classic example.
• Shirt collar: a leather point collar, as on the original A-2. It looks a little more grown-up and pairs well with button-down shirts.
• Sheepskin or shearling collar: the warmest choice for winter, framing the face when turned up. See the buffalo bomber below or the Women's Distressed Brown Leather Bomber Jacket with Shearling Collar.
• Hood: a removable hood, as on our Men's Lambskin Leather Bomber Jacket with Removable Hood, makes a practical everyday jacket for gray, drizzly days.

Men's Black Lambskin Leather Bomber Jacket Women's Black Lambskin Leather Bomber Jacket Men's Distressed Brown Buffalo Bomber Jacket with Sheepskin Collar

Lambskin bombers feel soft and light and suit a slimmer, dressier look, while buffalo and cowhide versions are sturdier and more rugged. Black is the sleeker option and brown the more casual one. Our black vs brown leather jacket guide helps you choose.

How a leather bomber jacket should fit

A bomber is meant to be a little fuller than a biker, but it shouldn't look oversized. Aim for ease in the body and neatness at the edges.

• Hem: the waistband should sit at or just below your belt, with the leather bloused gently over it rather than ballooning.
• Shoulders: the seam should land at your shoulder edge. Some bombers have a slightly dropped shoulder by design, but the jacket shouldn't slide off you.
• Body: you should be able to zip it over a sweater without strain.
• Sleeves: with your arms bent, the cuffs should still reach your wrists. A little extra length gathers into the cuff and looks right.

Resist the urge to size up for a relaxed look. On a bomber, extra width collects above the knit hem and makes the jacket look boxy.

Measure with our size guide before ordering. If you have long arms or a broad chest, choose "Customise Size (made to measure)" on the product page, then email info@whiteburaq.com with your order number and your chest, shoulders, sleeve length, waist, hips and jacket length. Made-to-measure jackets ship in 3–7 business days, and express delivery takes 3–5 business days in the US or 5–8 elsewhere.

Since they are cut for you, made-to-measure jackets can't be returned. Read the made-to-measure details before you order.

How to wear a leather bomber jacket

The bomber's relaxed shape makes it easy to dress up or down.

• Everyday: gray or white T-shirt, straight or tapered jeans and leather sneakers.
• Smart casual: oxford shirt or fine-gauge knit, chinos and suede chukka boots. A black bomber with a rib-knit collar looks especially clean here.
• Layered: a hoodie with the hood out over the collar, or the bomber under a wool overcoat on cold days. A rib-knit collar sits flatter under a coat than a shearling-style one.
• For women: a bomber that ends at the waist over high-rise trousers or a midi skirt, or thrown over a knit dress with boots.

Match the leather's mood to the outfit. Distressed brown leans rugged and pairs with denim, olive and cream, while smooth black works with charcoal, navy and all-black outfits.

Caring for the leather and knit trims

Wipe the leather with a soft, damp cloth and condition it once or twice a year, keeping conditioner off the ribbing. Our guide on how to condition a leather jacket covers the method.

If the knit gets wet, press out the water with a towel and let the jacket dry at room temperature. Remove lint with a clothes brush, and never hang the jacket from a hook by its collar, which stretches the knit. A broad hanger keeps both the shoulders and the ribbing in shape, and with that care a genuine leather bomber can be worn for many years.

FAQ

What is the difference between a bomber and a flight jacket?

Bomber jackets grew out of military flight jackets, so the terms overlap. "Flight jacket" often refers to a specific military pattern such as the A-2 or G-1, while "bomber" describes the general style with knit cuffs and hem.

Should a leather bomber jacket be tight?

No. It should be close at the cuffs and hem and comfortable through the body, with enough room for a sweater underneath.

Are leather bomber jackets warm?

A lined leather bomber blocks wind well and suits cool fall and spring days, and a sheepskin or shearling collar adds warmth for winter. Our guide on how warm leather jackets are goes into detail.

Can women wear a leather bomber jacket?

Yes. Women's bombers are cut with a shaped body and pair well with dresses, skirts and tailored trousers.

Explore our men's bomber jackets and women's bomber jackets to find a leather bomber jacket with the collar, color and leather that suit your wardrobe.