Leather Jacket Guides

A shearling jacket is one of the warmest things you can own, and one of the easiest to get wrong. Thick wool, a big collar and a roomy military cut can swallow your frame if the rest of the outfit adds even more volume. Learning how to wear a shearling jacket comes down to balance: let the jacket be the bold piece and keep everything around it lean.

What is a shearling jacket, and why can it look bulky?

Shearling is sheepskin tanned with the wool left on. The wool faces in for warmth, and the skin side forms the outside of the jacket, finished smooth or with a soft, suede-like surface. You can read more about the material in our shearling leather guide and our sheepskin leather guide.

The best-known shearling style, the B-3 bomber, was standardized in 1934 for US Army Air Corps bomber crews flying in bitterly cold, high-altitude conditions. It was cut roomy to go over flight clothing, with a deep wool collar and straps to close it. That generous shape is part of the appeal, but it is also where bulk comes from.

Thick wool, a wide collar and extra room in the body all add width, and a chunky sweater underneath adds more. For how the B-3 compares with the leaner A-2, see our A-2 vs B-3 flight jacket guide.

Choose the right shearling style for your frame

• B-3 bombers. Waist length, with a large collar and a full body. Best on medium to tall frames and broad shoulders. On a smaller build, choose a size that fits closely at the shoulders so the body does not balloon.
• Aviator jackets. Usually a little trimmer than a B-3, with a collar that can be worn open or fastened with a strap or belt. A good middle ground for city wear.
• Cropped shearling jackets. Popular with women because they show the waist and keep the volume up top. They work especially well on petite frames and with high-rise trousers.
• Shearling-collar leather jackets. If a full shearling jacket feels like too much, a leather jacket with a sheepskin or shearling collar gives the look with far less volume.

Men's Distressed Brown Sheepskin B-3 Aviator Jacket Women's Distressed Brown Sheepskin B-3 Bomber Jacket Men's Black Lambskin Shearling Aviator Jacket

How to wear a shearling jacket and balance the volume

Keep the bottom half slim

A wide top needs a leaner base. For men, straight or tapered jeans, slim chinos and fitted wool trousers all work. For women, slim or straight jeans, leggings, or a slim midi skirt with tall boots keep the silhouette balanced. Wide-leg trousers can work too, but mostly with a cropped shearling that shows the waist.

Layer thin, not thick

Shearling is already warm, so you rarely need a heavy knit under it. A merino sweater, a fine-gauge roll neck, a thermal henley or a simple T-shirt is plenty for most days. Skip hoodies: the hood fights the collar and doubles the bulk at your neck. If you are weighing shearling against a regular leather jacket, our guide to whether leather jackets are warm compares linings and weights.

Mind the length

Most shearling jackets end at the waist or hip. Keep shirts and sweaters from hanging below the hem, since a layer peeking out adds width at the widest point of the outfit.

Wear it open when you can

An open front creates a vertical line down the body, which makes the jacket read longer and slimmer. Zip it and close the collar when the wind picks up.

Get the size right

Buy for your shoulders, not for extra room. The wool packs down slightly with wear, and a jacket bought a size up for layering will only look bigger. Check our size guide against a jacket you already like.

Shoes that work with shearling

Heavy outerwear needs footwear with some weight so the outfit does not look top-heavy.

• Lace-up leather boots and work boots are the classic partner, especially with a B-3 bomber.
• Chelsea boots suit aviator jackets and darker, city outfits.
• Lug-sole or knee-high boots balance women's cropped and bomber shearling styles.
• Chunky leather sneakers work for weekends. Slim running shoes and delicate flats tend to look lost under all that wool.

Colors that keep shearling looking sharp

Most shearling jackets pair brown leather with cream or tan wool, or black leather with dark wool. Work with those tones rather than against them.

• Brown and cream: indigo denim, olive, navy, cream and charcoal all sit well.
• Black: go tonal with black, charcoal and gray for a streamlined look that minimizes bulk.
• One texture in charge: the wool collar is already a statement, so avoid pairing it with fuzzy hats, loud patterns and thick cable knits all at once.

Shearling outfit ideas for men and women

For men:

• Brown B-3 bomber, gray merino crew neck, dark straight jeans and brown lace-up boots
• Black shearling aviator, black roll neck, charcoal wool trousers and black Chelsea boots
• Brown aviator, white T-shirt, olive chinos and suede boots

For women:

• Cropped brown shearling, cream knit, high-rise straight jeans and lug-sole boots
• Black sheepskin bomber, black leggings or slim trousers and knee-high boots
• Brown B-3 bomber, slim midi skirt and tall brown boots

How to care for a shearling jacket

• Keep it dry. Shearling does not like soaking. If it gets wet, shake off the water, hang it on a wide hanger and let it air-dry at room temperature, away from radiators and hair dryers.
• Brush the wool. A soft brush or wide-tooth comb lifts flattened wool at the collar and cuffs. Work gently in the direction of the fibers.
• Treat the outside by its finish. A smooth leather exterior can take a light conditioner, while a suede-like exterior needs a suede brush instead.
• Store it properly. Use a wide, shaped hanger and a breathable cotton cover, never plastic, and give it space in the closet so the wool is not crushed.
• Leave deep cleaning to a specialist. Stains in the wool or on the skin are best handled by a cleaner experienced with sheepskin.

FAQ

Can you wear a shearling jacket in the rain?

A light shower will not ruin it, but shearling should not get soaked. Dry it slowly at room temperature and brush the wool once it is dry.

Should a shearling jacket be tight or loose?

Neither. It should fit at the shoulders with room for a thin knit and close without strain. Sizing up for extra room is the fastest way to look bulky.

Is a shearling jacket too warm for fall?

On mild fall days it can be. Wear it open over a T-shirt, or save it for colder weather and choose a leather jacket with a shearling-style collar for in-between days.

Can shorter people wear a B-3 bomber?

Yes. Choose a close fit at the shoulders, wear slim trousers with boots that have a thicker sole, and fold the collar down to avoid a boxy look.

Once you know how to wear a shearling jacket, the formula is simple: one generous piece, slim layers, sturdy shoes and a tight color palette. Browse our shearling jackets to find a B-3, aviator or cropped style that suits your frame.