Leather Jacket Guides

Finding a leather jacket for broad shoulders is mostly a sizing puzzle. A jacket that fits your shoulders can hang loose at the waist, and one that fits your waist pulls tight across your back. The fix is to know which measurements matter, choose styles that suit an athletic build, and size for the parts of the jacket that cannot be changed later.

Which measurements matter most for broad shoulders?

If you have broad shoulders, a big chest or large arms, a single "size" on a tag rarely tells the whole story. Take these measurements before you buy:

• Shoulder width. Measure across your back from the outer edge of one shoulder bone to the other. This is the hardest part of a jacket to alter, so it matters most.
• Chest. Measure around the fullest part of your chest, under the arms, with your arms relaxed and a normal breath.
• Back width. The width across your upper back, between the armpits. A broad back is often why a jacket feels tight when you reach forward even though the chest measurement looks right.
• Bicep. Measure around the fullest part of your upper arm. Leather sleeves have little give, and tight biceps make a jacket uncomfortable when you bend your arms.
• Waist and sleeve length. Your waist shows how much extra room you will have lower down, and broad frames often come with longer arms.

Our step-by-step guide on how to measure for a leather jacket shows where to place the tape, and our leather jacket size guide turns those numbers into a size.

Why the "drop" matters

Tailors call the difference between chest and waist the drop. Standard suit sizing assumes about six inches, and many ready-to-wear jackets are cut on similar proportions. Athletic builds often have a drop of eight inches or more, which is why a jacket sized for the chest can feel roomy at the waist.

What style of leather jacket for broad shoulders works best?

Some shapes work with a V-shaped frame, while others fight it.

• Biker jackets. Wide lapels and a diagonal zip echo the V shape of broad shoulders and a narrower waist. Many have a waist belt or side adjusters that take in extra room.
• A-2 and bomber jackets. A rib-knit waistband and cuffs gather the fabric at the hem, so a jacket sized for your chest does not flap at the waist. The slightly blousy body gives the chest and back room to move.
• Trucker jackets. A straight, waist-length cut with a shoulder yoke sits comfortably on a big chest and does not need a narrow waist to look right.

Approach very slim cafe racer styles with care. Their high armholes and narrow cut suit leaner frames, and sizing up to clear your shoulders can leave the sleeves too long. Jackets with heavy epaulettes or big shoulder details also add width you may not want.

Details that help

• Raglan sleeves. The seam runs from the underarm up to the collar, so there is no fixed shoulder seam to fit. They are more forgiving on broad shoulders.
• Adjustable waists. Belts, side tabs and knit hems let you fine-tune the waist without changing the shoulder size.
• Darker colors and clean fronts. Black, dark brown and a single vertical zip line keep the upper body from looking wider than it is.

For women with broad shoulders or an athletic frame, the same rules apply. A biker jacket with a defined waist balances the shoulders, and a cropped length that ends at the natural waist draws the eye down. Our comparison of bomber and biker jackets explains how each shape sits on the body.

These three jackets are good starting points for athletic builds: a tailored black biker, a lightweight cowhide A-2 flight jacket, and a women's lambskin biker.

Men's Black Leather Tailored Biker JacketMen's Distressed Brown Lightweight Cowhide A-2 Flight JacketWomen's Black Lambskin Leather Biker Jacket

How should the jacket fit across your shoulders and back?

Try the jacket on over the kind of layer you will usually wear, then run through this checklist:

1. Shoulder seam. It should sit at the edge of your shoulder bone, not ride up onto the top of your shoulder or drop down your arm.
2. Chest and back. Zip it up. There should be no X-shaped pulling across the chest or tight lines across your back.
3. Reach test. Reach forward and cross your arms. The back should feel snug but not strained.
4. Sleeves. Bend your elbows. The sleeves should not squeeze your biceps, and the cuffs should reach your wrist bone with arms at your sides.
5. Waist. Some extra room here is normal for athletic builds, and a ribbed hem or belt will take care of it.

For a fuller checklist, see how a leather jacket should fit.

Will a leather jacket stretch to fit broad shoulders?

Only a little. Genuine leather relaxes with wear, mostly at the elbows and across the back, and softer hides such as lambskin give a bit more than cowhide. But the shoulder seams and armholes will not grow. A jacket that feels tight across the shoulders on day one will stay tight there. Buy for comfort in the shoulders and let the leather mold to you elsewhere. Our guide on whether leather jackets stretch covers where to expect give.

Should you size up or tailor the waist?

Size to your shoulders and chest, then deal with the waist. That order matters, because a leather tailor can usually take a jacket in at the side seams, but letting it out is hard: leather keeps the old needle holes, and there is rarely spare leather in the seam. Widening the shoulders is almost never practical.

If sizing up leaves the sleeves or body too long, or your chest and waist are far apart, made to measure is the cleaner answer. Choose "Customise Size (made to measure)" on the product page, then email info@whiteburaq.com with your order number and measurements: chest, shoulders, sleeve length, waist, hips and jacket length. Made-to-measure pieces ship within 3 to 7 business days, and express delivery takes 3 to 5 business days in the US and 5 to 8 elsewhere. Because they are cut to your measurements, made-to-measure pieces can't be returned, so measure carefully.

FAQ

Should I size up in a leather jacket if I have broad shoulders?

Only if your usual size is tight across the shoulders or chest. Sizing up also adds length to the sleeves and body, so check those before you commit.

Which leather jacket style is best for a big chest and small waist?

An A-2 or bomber with a rib-knit waistband, or a biker jacket with a belt. Both let you size for your chest while keeping the waist neat.

Can a tailor make a leather jacket wider in the shoulders?

Rarely. Leather seams have little spare allowance, and old needle holes show. It is far easier to buy the right shoulder size and take in the waist.

Are lambskin or cowhide jackets better for athletic builds?

Lambskin is softer and moves more easily, which many broad-shouldered wearers find comfortable. Cowhide is stiffer at first but molds to your shape as you wear it.

The right leather jacket for broad shoulders fits your frame at the top and handles the waist with smart design or tailoring. If standard sizes never quite work, order your jacket made to measure and get a fit built around your measurements.