Chrome-Tanned Leather: How Most Leather Is Made Today
Most of the leather you've ever worn was probably chrome-tanned. The method became widespread in the late 19th century and changed the leather industry.
Chrome-tanned at a glance
| Comes from | Any hide, tanned with chromium salts |
|---|---|
| Feel | Soft and supple |
| Weight | Light to medium |
| Durability | ●●●●● |
| Break-in | Short |
| Best for | Garments, shoes, upholstery, bags |
What is chrome-tanned leather?
Chrome tanning uses chromium(III) salts to stabilise the hide's collagen. It's much faster than vegetable tanning, often taking a day or two instead of weeks. Freshly chrome-tanned hides have a pale blue-grey colour and are called "wet blue" before they are dyed and finished.
How chrome-tanned leather looks and feels
It's soft and supple, holds bright and consistent colours well, and resists water and heat better than untreated veg-tan. It doesn't darken as dramatically with age.
Pros and cons
- Pros: soft and comfortable, wide range of colours, good water and heat resistance, consistent, efficient to produce.
- Cons: less dramatic patina than veg-tan; tanneries must manage chromium waste properly to protect the environment.
What chrome-tanned leather is best for
Jackets and other garments, shoes, gloves, upholstery and handbags, anywhere softness and colour matter.
A note on the environment
The chromium used in tanning is trivalent chromium, chromium(III). The concern is that, if tanning waste isn't handled properly, it can pollute water, and under some conditions a harmful form, chromium(VI), can form. Well-run tanneries treat their wastewater and control their processes, and regions such as the EU set strict limits on chromium(VI) in leather goods.
How to care for chrome-tanned leather
Wipe it clean, condition a few times a year, and let it dry naturally if it gets wet. See our leather care guide and how to clean a leather jacket.
Chrome vs vegetable tanning
Vegetable-tanned leather is firmer and ages with more character; chrome-tanned leather is softer, more colourful and quicker to produce. Some leathers are "combination tanned" using both.
Frequently asked questions
Is chrome-tanned leather real leather?
Yes. Chrome tanning is a method of turning real hides into leather.
Is chrome-tanned leather bad?
No. It's durable and comfortable. The key is that tanneries manage their waste responsibly.
Why is it called wet blue?
Freshly chrome-tanned hides have a pale blue-grey colour before they're dyed and finished.
Related leather types
- Vegetable-tanned: Vegetable tanning uses natural tannins from bark and plants.
- Nappa: Nappa is a name for very soft, smooth grain leather, usually lamb, sheep, goat or calf.
- Aniline & semi-aniline: Aniline, semi-aniline and pigmented describe how a leather is coloured and protected.
- Top-grain: Top-grain leather comes from the top of the hide but has its surface lightly sanded and refinished for an even, clean look.
Explore all 30 leathers in our leather types guide, see our leather care guide, or contact us for help choosing a jacket.